The Play of Materials

Sourcing: A Key Step in the Creative Process

“Fashion fades, impact lasts” could be a more contemporary take on the famous quote “Fashion fades, style remains” by Yves Saint Laurent.

Whether one sculpts fabric directly on the dress form like the designer did, or creates pieces from pre-identified textiles and/or finished products as Cerceau does, it is high time we move towards sustainable sourcing.

Photographe : An Lalemant pour uptrade

And You, How Do You Work?

Every individual has their own creative process. Working methods vary depending on personality and imagination, but also on the message behind the project. In this way, how one approaches fabric and imagines its use remains entirely flexible. Some creatives begin by searching for a fabric or texture that will inspire their next pieces, while others start with sketches and think about the form before looking for their dream material.

In both cases—whether the fabric finds you or you go in search of one that best suits your ideas—material sourcing is an essential step in the creative process. It is a key link in the successful development of a more circular economy through responsible and collaborative actions.

Stockpiles Galore

Starting in the 1990s and 2000s, many Western brands outsourced their production to countries like Pakistan and Bangladesh to benefit from cheaper labor.

Fast fashion quickly took over by constantly renewing its collections to keep up with trends, creating a culture of compulsive buying. For fans of so-called disposable fashion, there’s no need to worry! Each year, a staggering 600,000 tons of irresistible items at unbeatable prices are put on the market.

Photographe : An Lalemant pour uptrade

Today, an individual buys on average 60% more than fifteen years ago[2], which amounts to 130 billion garments consumed per year. The desire for newness has violently pushed the product itself into the background.

This context of overproduction has also led to an abundance of fabric scraps and dormant stock, representing significant amounts of unused materials. Every year, more than 12% of the material produced worldwide gathers dust in warehouses, and less than 1% of used clothes are recycled[3].

It is high time to find solutions to this problem that no one wants to address. In France, the fight against textile waste is supported by the anti-waste law for a circular economy, known as the AGEC law, published in February 2020. This law prohibits, among other things, the destruction of unsold TLC items (clothing textiles, household linen, and shoes), imposing the obligation to reuse, repurpose, or recycle these stocks.

Upcycling as a New Mantra

Upcycling, or "surcycling," is a craft that stands in direct opposition to fast fashion. To upcycle for revalorization means using “waste” to create anew. The term “waste” immediately condemns the material as unusable, devaluing it simply because it is no longer considered functional or useful.

That’s why large stocks of fabric are sidelined, discarded by new trends. Why recreate material when you can make use of what already exists? Extending the lifespan of materials isn’t limited to recycling; it primarily involves reusing.

As you can see, it has become essential to rethink material sourcing to take this turn toward more responsible fashion. Adopting a more virtuous production mode by sourcing more locally, consuming less but better, and consuming what already exists.

All these conscious actions will allow us to dress more mindfully and reduce our impact on people and the environment.

Sources

[1] Agence de la transition écologique (ADEME), La Mode sans dessus-dessous, infographic, ADEME, June 2017

[2] McKinsey & Co, “Style that is sustainable: A new fast fashion formula,” Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman & Steven Swartz, 2016

[3] “Fast Fashion is creating an environmental crisis,” Newsweek, 2016

[4] Reset, A History of Upcycling, Clara Riff, 2021